A ratchet strap only has one job: to keep a load exactly where you put it, however the road, the ferry or the forklift tries to move it. Get it right and you forget it's even there. Get it wrong - the wrong rating, a twisted webbing, a hook on the wrong anchor point - and you find out at the worst possible moment, usually with something expensive sliding across a van floor.
The good news is that choosing and using them well isn't complicated. It comes down to matching the strap to the load, threading and tensioning it properly, and giving it a ten-second check before every journey. Here's how to do all three.
What a ratchet strap actually is
Strip away the jargon and every ratchet strap is three parts working together. There's the webbing - the woven polyester band that does the holding; the ratchet mechanism - the lever handle that lets you pull the strap tight and locks it there; and the end fittings - the hooks or rings that attach to your anchor points. Pull the ratchet handle back and forth and it winds the webbing in a notch at a time, so you can apply real tension by hand and it won't creep back out on its own.
That's the whole appeal over a simple elastic strap or a rope: a ratchet strap holds a measured, repeatable tension and stays put. It's the difference between hoping a load stays and knowing it will.
Choosing the right strap: the numbers that matter
Manufacturers print a lot of figures on the label, but a handful decide whether a strap suits your load. The one to understand first is lashing capacity (LC) - the working load the strap is rated to restrain. It is not the same as the breaking strength; the breaking strength is where the webbing fails, and the lashing capacity is the safe working figure you actually design around, well below it. Always choose by lashing capacity, and never by how strong the webbing looks.
| What to check |
Why it matters |
| Lashing capacity (LC) |
The rated working load. Match it to the weight and number of straps you'll use - not to the breaking strength. |
| Webbing width |
Wider webbing (typically 25, 35 or 50mm) generally carries a higher capacity and spreads the force over more of the load. |
| Length |
Long enough to reach both anchor points with a little to spare - but not so long that metres of loose webbing flap about. |
| End fittings |
Match the hook to your anchor: S-hooks, claw or delta rings, snap hooks. The fitting is part of the rating, so it must match the strap. |
| One-piece or two-piece |
Endless (loop) straps for parcelling a load together; two-piece straps with a fixed and adjustable end for tying down to anchor points. |
As a rule, use enough straps that their combined lashing capacity comfortably exceeds what you're restraining, and spread them across the load rather than relying on one heroic strap in the middle. If you're securing the same kind of load day in, day out, it's worth standardising on one or two sizes so nobody has to think about it - ask us for a quote on a set and we'll help you match the capacity to the job.
Using them safely
A perfectly chosen strap can still let you down if it's fitted badly, so the method matters as much as the kit. The routine is quick once it's habit:
- Anchor both ends first. Hook onto rated anchor points, not door handles, light brackets or anything that was never meant to take load.
- Feed the webbing through the ratchet. Thread it through the slot in the drum, take up the slack by hand, then work the handle to tension it.
- Tension firmly, not brutally. The strap should be taut and the load held; you're restraining it, not crushing it. Over-tensioning can damage the load and the strap.
- Keep the webbing flat. A twisted strap loses strength and wears faster - lay it flat across the load and untwist any kinks before you tighten.
- Protect sharp edges. Where webbing runs over a corner or edge, use edge protectors so it can't be cut or chafed under tension.
- Lock the handle closed and tuck away the loose tail so nothing can work loose or flap in the wind.
On the road, check the straps again after the first few miles and at every stop - loads settle, and a strap that was tight when you set off can slacken as things bed in. In the UK, web lashing assemblies are made to the standard EN 12195-2, and following the rated figures on the label is what keeps you the right side of both safety and the law.
Common mistakes, and when to bin a strap
Most strap failures come down to the same few habits: reaching for whatever's in the bottom of the van rather than a strap rated for the load, running the webbing over a raw edge, or leaving a twist in it. All three are avoidable in seconds.
Webbing also has a service life, and a strap is a consumable, not a fitting for life. Retire any strap with cuts, fraying, chemical staining or heat glazing on the webbing, and any with a bent, seized or corroded ratchet. When in doubt, take it out of service - a replacement strap costs far less than the load it was meant to hold. Keep a few spares with your other lifting and loading equipment so a tired strap is never a reason to press a dubious one into service.
Getting it right
Choose by lashing capacity, fit the strap flat and firm onto proper anchor points, protect any edges, and check it before and during the journey. Do that and a ratchet strap does exactly what it's meant to - nothing dramatic, which is precisely the point.
Browse our full range of ratchet straps, or if you're kitting out a fleet or a loading bay, request a quote and we'll help you get the right capacities and lengths in the right numbers.
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Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between lashing capacity and breaking strength?
Breaking strength is the point at which the webbing fails. Lashing capacity (LC) is the safe working load the strap is rated to restrain in normal use, set well below the breaking strength. Always choose and load a strap by its lashing capacity, never by its breaking strength.
How many ratchet straps do I need for a load?
Use enough that their combined lashing capacity comfortably exceeds the weight you're restraining, and spread them across the load rather than relying on one. The exact number depends on the weight, shape and how the load could shift, so check the rated figures and add straps if in doubt.
What's the difference between a ratchet strap and a cam buckle strap?
A ratchet strap uses a geared lever to apply and hold high tension, which suits heavier loads. A cam buckle strap tightens by hand through a spring-loaded buckle - quicker and gentler, better for lighter or more delicate loads where you don't want the force a ratchet can apply.
Can ratchet straps be repaired if the webbing is damaged?
No. Webbing with cuts, fraying, chemical staining or heat damage should be taken out of service, not repaired, and the same goes for a bent or seized ratchet. Straps are consumable safety items - replace a damaged one rather than risk it.
How do I stop a ratchet strap coming loose in transit?
Fit it flat with no twists onto rated anchor points, tension it firmly and lock the handle closed, then tuck away the loose tail. Loads settle as you travel, so re-check and re-tension the straps after the first few miles and at every stop.
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